Shinola

This article is about the lifestyle brand. For the twentieth century shoe polish company, see Shinola (shoe polish). For other meanings, see Shinola (disambiguation).
Native name
 Shinola Detroit
LLC
Industry Lifestyle brand
Founded 2011 (2011) in Detroit, Michigan, United States
Founder Tom Kartsotis
Headquarters Cass Corridor, Detroit, Michigan, United States
Key people
 Tom Kartsotis, Steve Bock
Website shinola.com

Shinola is an American luxury lifestyle brand which specializes in watches, bicycles, and leather goods among other items. Founded in 2011, its name is a nod to the former Shinola shoe polish company that operated in the early- and mid-20th century. The current company is owned and operated by Bedrock Brands, a privately owned Texas investment group, and was launched by Tom Kartsotis,[1] one of the founders of the Fossil Group retail conglomerate.[2] In June 2016, the FTC ordered the company to stop using "Made in America" as a slogan as "100% of the cost of materials used to make certain watches is attributable to imported materials." [3]

History

A tin of original Shinola.

The original Shinola shoe polish brand was founded in Rochester New York in 1877,[4] and went out of business in 1960.[5] In 2001, the name Shinola was acquired by Bedrock Manufacturing, a venture capital firm based in Dallas, Texas (later rechristened as Bedrock Brands). Kartsotis wanted to create an American watch-manufacturing brand to rival Swiss-makers at a lower price point.[6] The management at Bedrock Manufacturing chose the name "Shinola" when a Kartsotis associate used the World War II era colloquialism, "You don't know shit from Shinola," as a rejoinder to Kartsotis' stated ambition of building a great company. Unexpectedly, the joke generated a serious discussion about restoring the Shinola brand.[7][8] Market surveys established that consumers—when faced with a choice of paying $5 for a pen from China, $10 for one made in the United States, and $15 for a pen made in Detroit—would be willing to pay a premium for the last one.[7]

Today, every Shinola product is, technically speaking, made in the United States.[7][9][10] However, many parts used in Shinola watches are manufactured in Switzerland.[7][11][12] At the time of the company's founding in 2011, no American watchmaker had produced watches at scale since the late 1960s, with U.S.-based watchmaking relegated to select specialty companies such as RGM in Lancaster, PA.[13][14] Shinola's current tagline is "Where American is Made,"[upper-alpha 1] and the company has actively utilized Detroit's reputation as a worldwide manufacturing hub in its marketing of the brand.[16]

The company's headquarters and watch factory are housed within the College for Creative Studies (CCS) on the fifth floor of the Alfred A. Taubman Building in Detroit, a former automotive research lab.[17] Shinola's occupation of the CCS space at first occurred by accident when Bedrock officials, seeking a manufacturing site after resolving to rebuild Shinola, visited the College and the elevator unexpectedly opened on the fifth floor, which was vacant at the time. They decided to transform the 30,000 square feet of vacant space into their watch factory and company headquarters.[7][9] To build out the watch factory, the company partnered with Ronda, which also brought in expert watchmaking veterans to train Shinola's watch assemblers, all of whom had no prior experience in watchmaking. Currently, the factory has the capacity to produce 500,000 watches a year.[18]

Most of the workers assembling watches are local Detroiters, and many of them come from the auto business.[19] Since the company's founding in 2011, it has grown to over 400 people.[20]

Criticism

A blogger has derided Shinola for using cheap, easy-to-manufacture quartz movements, noting that the battery-powered movements utilized—manufactured by Ronda AG, an independently owned Swiss movement manufacturer[6]—are worth a mere $20.[21] Other brands, such as Tag Heuer, have also faced criticism of this sort.[22] Shinola has further faced criticism for its failure to use the automatic, self-winding mechanisms found in nearly all higher-end watches, ones which require substantially more skill to produce.[12]

Detroit-based journalist Jon Moy has suggested that the choice of Detroit as the location of Shinola's factory was a calculated act of "opportunistic marketing" intended to yield feelings of nostalgia on a purchaser's part.[23] He wrote about Shinola: "Shinola is using my city as its shill, pushing a manufactured, outdated and unrealistic ideal of America."[23] On the other hand, many commentators to this article consider this criticism unfair, given that the company has created American manufacturing jobs.[23] Moreover, the company has invested intensely in its employees, flying in watchmakers from Switzerland to train its employees.[24] Additional criticism is noted by Professor Rebekah Modrak in her article Bougie Crap. She writes:[25]

Texas-based Bedrock Manufacturing notoriously attached their Shinola venture to Detroit after test studies showed that consumers would pay three times as much for a product associated with the tenacity of a bankrupt city.[26] What do you call the adoption of one culture by a second group whose only culture is profit? "Cultural appropriation" sounds too innocent and even potentially transformative (like a cool mash-up) and doesn’t convey the imperialism at play. A better description is consumer culture scholar Jeff Pooley's "the colonization of the apparently earnest."[27] ...participants in the CCS/Shinola union enact the racial and class divide at play in the gentrification of a Detroit that’s "rising from the ashes" but also pre-existed within the Fordist automotive industry.

Products

Watches

Shinola's first watch was released in March 2013. Produced in an edition of 2,500 and available in two sizes, The Runwell Limited Edition 47mm sold out in one week, with the last 40mm watch selling out in under two weeks. The watches sold for $550, and approximately 35% of the sales came from Michigan.[28]

In October 2013, Shinola released their second limited edition watch, The Wright Brothers Limited Edition watch, the first watch in the Great Americans Series, which was released in conjunction with a limited edition bicycle.[upper-alpha 2] The watch was produced in two sizes, 40mm and 46mm, with each size available in a limited edition of 500. Purchase included a leather-bound coffee table book about the Wright Brothers, as well as enrollment in The Foundry, the brand's collectors club.[30]

In September 2014, Shinola released The Lattice, a limited edition wristwatch created in partnership with Oscar de La Renta. The 36mm women’s watch was manufactured in Detroit in a limited edition of 250. Purchase included a hardcover book created exclusively for the project which complements the timepiece by offering an in-depth look at Oscar de la Renta and his work.[31]

In 2014, Shinola released The Black Blizzard titanium wristwatch in 48mm and 42mm as well as the next Signature Series limited editions watch, The Henry Ford Pocket Watch. The company also produces a number of different watch styles on a non-limited edition basis, including The Birdy, The Gomelsky, The Runwell Chronograph, The Runwell Sport, The Runwell Sport Chrono and The Brakeman.[12][32][33][34]

Bicycles

Shinola bicycles include three models: the single-speed Detroit Arrow, the three-speed Bixby, and The Runwell with an 11-speed internally geared hub. All three bikes were designed by Sky Yaeger, formerly of Swobo, Spot, and Bianchi.[upper-alpha 3] The chromoly steel frames and forks are made by Richard Schwinn's Waterford Precision Cycles in Waterford, Wisconsin, with complete assembly taking place at Shinola's flagship retail store at 441 W. Canfield Street in Detroit.[36][37]

In addition to The Bixby and The Runwell, Shinola produced two limited edition bicycles, including the The Wright Brothers Limited Edition Bicycle and The Shinola Runwell Di2 Limited Edition, as well as a one-off Twinn Tandem bicycle and brass-plated Runwell bicycle.[upper-alpha 4][30][38][39]

Journals

Shinola makes journals in partnership with Edwards Brothers Malloy, an Ann Arbor, MI-based company.[40][41] The journals come with paper, soft linen or hard linen covers, with a price point of $12-$20 for a linen covered journal.[42]

Leather

Shinola's leather goods and leather watch straps are made using leather predominantly supplied by the Chicago-based tannery, Horween Leather, which has been in operation since 1905. The tanning of the leather takes months, using a process that showcases the natural beauty and characteristics of the leather.[43] Shinola leather watch straps were once made by Hadley-Roma in Key Largo, Florida, but are now produced at their factory in Detroit. A partial list of Shinola leather goods includes iPad and iPhone cases, wallets, portfolios, backpacks, and more.[44][45]

Shinola also recently opened its own leather factory in Detroit, and has begun manufacturing leather watch straps under the leadership of Braloba, a Swiss-based, family-owned company run by Thomas Schori. The leather factory is equipped with custom-designed machines produced by Galli S.P.A. The company will also begin producing small leather goods and accessories in-house.[46]

Shinola also sells watch straps individually; leather straps come from Hadley Roma in Largo, Florida and Horween Leather in Chicago, and rubber watch straps made in partnership with Stern Manufacturing of Staples, Minnesota.[47] The company also revived production of shoe polish in 2013, albeit in a different formulation and tin can packaging.[11][48]

Shinola Pet

Shinola Pet is a collection of American-made dog beds, toys, leashes and collars, produced in collaboration with photographer Bruce Weber,[49] known for his ad campaigns for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Pirelli, Abercrombie & Fitch, Revlon and Gianni Versace, as well as his work for Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, Elle, Life, Interview and Rolling Stone magazines. Shinola Pet supports the Michigan Humane Society and the Best Friends Animal Society in their mission to raise awareness about rescue organizations and to save pets by finding them homes. A portion of the pets toys are produced in partnership with Empowerment Plan, a Detroit-based charity organization that employs local women who are living in shelters, training them to manufacture sleeping bag coats for the homeless.[50]

Retail locations

Shinola store in Plano, Texas

In addition to the Shinola website, Shinola products are available for sale at flagship stores in Detroit, New York, London, Toronto, Highland Park, Plano, Minneapolis, Chicago, Los Angeles and Washington, D.C.[51]—each located in affluent shopping districts, and built out at a combined cost well in excess of $100 million—as well as upscale retailers across America and the world. In 2015, an additional store opened in Ann Arbor, Michigan. A Willys Detroit, a sister store to Shinola, is a home for distinctive American brands.[52]

In 2015, Third Man Records partnered with Shinola to open a retail location of its music label in Detroit.[53] Additionally, Shinola has expanded its offerings to include speakers, turntables, and headphones of "audiophile quality."[53]

Community involvement

In 2014, Shinola gifted the city of Detroit with four clocks, installed at Cobo Center, Eastern Market, at the corner of Milwaukee and Cass (in front of the College for Creative Studies), and at the corner of Cass and Canfield,[54] where Shinola also opened an off-leash dog park in partnership with Midtown Detroit, Inc. in 2014.[55]

In popular culture

Shinola was forever immortalized in colloquial English by the phrase "You don't know shit from Shinola" which first became widely popular during World War II.[56]

In the 1979 film comedy The Jerk, the character Navin R. Johnson (played by Steve Martin) is tested by "Daddy" (Richard Ward) on whether he knows the difference between shit and Shinola before leaving home.

The 1992 movie Basic Instinct features the character Gus telling Dr. Lamott, "Most times I can't tell shit from Shinola, Doc. What was all that you just said?"[57]

Ween released a 2005 compilation album titled, Shinola, Vol. 1 that plays on the colloquial phrase mentioned above.

Dolly Parton wrote the song "Shinola" – which also uses a lyric that plays on the colloqial phrase – for her 2008 Backwoods Barbie album.

Notable customers

Former President Bill Clinton bought 14 of Shinola's watches, calling the company an American success story.[6][58] Other politicians have promoted the product, including current Michigan Governor Rick Snyder and President Barack Obama.[58][59] On April 22, 2016, President Obama presented United Kingdom Prime Minister David Cameron with a custom Shinola men's watch featuring the seal of the President of the United States engraved on the back, presented in a wooden Shinola box customized with the Presidential seal.[60]

References

Notes

  1. ↑ Written by Griffin Creech of the Partners & Spade advertising agency.[15]
  2. ↑ "Some of the nice extras with the 11-speed Wright Brothers Limited Edition include an aluminum bell, a Shinola chainguard, a stainless water bottle cage, a Kleen Kanteen stainless bottle and a Torpedo headlamp." Bamboo fenders are included.[29]
  3. ↑ The Bixby bears the name of a shoe polish produced by the original Shinola.[35]
  4. ↑ Built at Waterford Precision Cycles in Wisconsin and brass-plated in Detroit.[14]

Citations

  1. ↑ Stacy Perman, "The Real History of America's Most Authentic Fake Brand", Inc. magazine, p. 106, April 2016.
  2. ↑ Caramanica, Jon (August 21, 2013). "The Next Branding of Detroit.". The New York Times. Retrieved 1 April 2015.
  3. ↑ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ftc-takes-major-action-against-shinola-demands-where-american-is-made-slogan-to-be-dropped-immediately
  4. ↑ Book of Industrial Rochester (PDF). Rochester, NY: Rochester Chamber of Commerce. 1919. p. 89.
  5. ↑ Klara, Robert (June 22, 2015). "How Shinola Went From Shoe Polish to the Coolest Brand in America Nobody's confusing shit with Shinola anymore". AdWeek. Retrieved July 16, 2015.
  6. 1 2 3 Heller, Karen (November 17, 2014), The luxury-goods company Shinola is capitalizing on Detroit. The Washington Post. Retrieved 10/14/2015.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 Muller, Joann (26 July 2013). "In Bankrupt Detroit, Shinola Puts Its Faith In American Manufacturing". Forbes. Retrieved 29 January 2015.
  8. ↑ Perman, Stacy (March 20, 2014). "U.S. SOLUTIONS FOR AMERICA: Built in Detroit—A new wave of high-end ventures like watchmaker Shinola helps revive manufacturing in the Motor City". Time Magazine. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  9. 1 2 VanderMay, Ann (9 July 2013). "Think you know Shinola? Think Again.". CNN Money. Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  10. ↑ Gomelsky, Victoria (1 June 2013). "Shinola Puts Motown Watches in Motion". JCK Magazine (Online). Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  11. 1 2 Shamberger, Katy. "Shinola Takes a Shine to Kansas City". ThisisKC.com. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  12. 1 2 3 Jasper, Kelly. "Hands-On With The Shinola Runwell Chronograph 47mm (Live Pics & Pricing)". HODINKEE. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  13. ↑ Hicks, Jesse (18 September 2013). "Shinola is Bringing Watchmaking to Detroit". The Verge. Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  14. 1 2 Delaney, Ben (March 14, 2013). "Shinola Runwell Di2 Limited Edition - first look". BikeRadar. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  15. ↑ Creech, Griffin. "Shinola". Béhance. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  16. ↑ Heller, Karen (November 17, 2014). "The luxury-goods company Shinola is capitalizing on Detroit". Washington Post. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  17. ↑ Zimberg, Alexis (August 7, 2012). "Imported From Detroit: Shinola Settles Into Taubman Center". Curbed Detroit. Retrieved November 21, 2013.
  18. ↑ Vanhemert, Kyle (7 November 2012). "How An Upstart Company In Detroit Is Building An American Heritage Brand". Fast Company. Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  19. ↑ Glor, Jeff (28 October 2013). "Watch company Shinola is investing big in Detroit". CBS News. Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  20. ↑ Haimerl, Amy (9 February 2014). "Canvas Watch Co. plans to dial in sales with timely design, Kickstarter boost". Crain's Detroit. Retrieved 19 April 2014.
  21. ↑ Jasper, Kelly (December 17, 2013). "Hands-On With The Shinola Runwell Chronograph 47mm (Live Pics & Pricing).". HODINKEE. Retrieved 1 April 2015.
  22. ↑ Thread: What movement is used in the TAG Heuer Professional 2000 quartz?
  23. 1 2 3 Moy, Jon (March 26, 2014). "On Shinola, Detroit's Misguided White Knight". Four Pins. Retrieved 1 April 2015.
  24. ↑ VanderMey, Anne (July 9, 2013). "Think you know Shinola? Think again.". Fortune.
  25. ↑ Rebekah Modrak (14 February 2015). "Bougie Crap". Infinite Mile.
  26. ↑ Duggan, Daniel (May 27, 2012). "Fossil Founder Digs the D". Crain's Detroit.
  27. ↑ Pooley, Jeff (2010). "The Consuming Self," from Blowing Up the Brand. New York: Peter Lang Publishing Inc. p. 80. ISBN 1433108674.
  28. ↑ Gallagher, John (March 20, 2013). "Shinola sold out of limited-edition watches". Detroit Free Press. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  29. ↑ Hahn, George (March 22, 2014). "The Wright Brothers™ Limited Edition Runwell Bike from Shinola". George Hahn. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  30. 1 2 Kahle, Laurie (December 11, 2013). "Shinola's Great Americans Series Debuts With Wright Brothers Limited Edition Watch & Bicycle". Forbes. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  31. ↑ Elliott, Hannah. "Shinola And Oscar de la Renta: Motown And Madison Avenue Make A Watch". Forbes. Retrieved 1 October 2014.
  32. ↑ Adams, Ariel. "Shinola Black Blizzard Titanium Chronograph Watch". A Blog to Watch. Retrieved 1 October 2014.
  33. ↑ Weiss, Zach (April 29, 2013). "Shinola at Baselworld 2013". Worn and Wound. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  34. ↑ Kahle, Laurie (May 20, 2013). "Detroit's Shinola Brings Watchmaking To The Motor City". Forbes. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  35. ↑ "Buyer's Guide: City Bikes: Shinola Bixby". Bicycling. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  36. ↑ Benedict, Tyler (December 3, 2012). "Found: Shinola Handmade Chromoly Bicycles from Detroit, by Way of Wisconsin". Bike Rumor. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  37. ↑ Rupersburg, Nicole (April 16, 2013). "Shinola to open flagship retail store in Midtown this June". ModelD. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  38. ↑ Dystant, Lena (April 11, 2014). "Shinola Create a One-Off "Twinn Tandem" Schwinn Bicycle". Selectism. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  39. ↑ Delaney, Ben (March 14, 2013). "A one-off, brass-plated Shinola". BikeRadar. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  40. ↑ "Made in Detroit". iW magazine.
  41. ↑ Ran, Tom (August 1, 2012). "Shinola Factory Visit". The Scout. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  42. ↑ Freed, Ben. "The ultimate Ann Arbor area buy local holiday shopping guide". MLive. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  43. ↑ Chooljian, Lauren. "Selling bikes, watches and civic pride". WBEZ. WBEZ 91.5. Retrieved 3 April 2014.
  44. ↑ Dadson, Adam. "Shinola: You Know No Better". Snob Essentials.
  45. ↑ Style Quotidien (April 28, 2014). "Shinola Hancrafted Watches, Bicycles & Leather Goods". Style Quotidien. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  46. ↑ "Shinola Opens New Leather Factory, Plans to Add 60 Jobs". DBusiness. 14 May 2014. Retrieved 14 May 2014.
  47. ↑ Doerr, Elizabeth. "Shinola's New Video Highlights American-Made Production Of Rubber Watch Straps". Forbes. Retrieved 19 November 2014.
  48. ↑ "Shinola Black Shoe Polish". Shinola. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  49. ↑ Codinha, Alessandra. "Bruce Weber's Dog Accessories for Shinola Are An American Dream". Vogue. Retrieved 11 August 2014.
  50. ↑ "Bruce Weber Partners with Shinola for New Line of Pet Accessories". Edge Media Network. Retrieved 29 August 2014.
  51. ↑ Elmer, Vickie (July 31, 2015), 10:19 a.m. "Shinola to open Washington, D.C., store". Crain's Detroit. Retrieved August 5, 2015.
  52. ↑ Faulkner, Ruth. "Shinola to open London store". Retail Jeweller. Retrieved 23 September 2014.
  53. 1 2 Doerr, Elizabeth (June 2, 2015), "Jack White And Shinola Purchase Flagship Building in Detroit's Cass Corridor". Forbes. Retrieved July 14, 2015.
  54. ↑ Doerr, Elizabeth. "Shinola Installs Vintage-Style City Clocks In Detroit". Forbes. Retrieved 10 March 2014.
  55. ↑ Muller, David. "Shinola opens Midtown Detroit dog park Friday, hosts block party". MLive. Retrieved 19 June 2014.
  56. ↑ Martin, Gary (2015). "Doesn't know shit from Shinola". Phrase Finder. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  57. ↑ "Basic Instinct". imsdb.com.
  58. 1 2 Wayland, Michael (June 28, 2014). "Former President Clinton flaunts Shinola watches from Detroit". MLive. Retrieved January 29, 2015.
  59. ↑ Here's What You Need to Know About President Obama's Badass Shinola Watch Esquire By Matt MillerJan 21, 2016
  60. ↑ "The Latest: Obama gives Cameron custom Shinola watch". Washington Post. Retrieved 22 April 2016.

External links

Look up know shit from Shinola in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
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